How to make your own 2D CNC machine, convert to a 3D printer in less than an hour and return to the CNC machine.
Cheaper than CNC machines
or 3D printers! (~$1,000. 00)
In addition, the design will go further than the traditional 3D printer printing ABS/PLA and continue to print with new materials such as tauman 618 and 3D printing nylon derivatives such as acrylic and PET.
The latest update as of 2/28/2016: 1. Major Update. . . .
We are very grateful to all of you for your many comments, support and help/suggestions on 2BEIGH3! .
We released this three years ago, and at that time the technology had grown a lot and we wanted to take a second to provide a short update.
With the release of 2BEIGH3, we were able to start with nothing like any machine at the time.
This will enable us to control the 3D printer part of the design without restriction.
In doing so, we were running similar 3DP configurations in the past and now when developing new polymers for 3D printing.
This allows us to bring more unique materials to 3D printing, especially in practical areas.
If you visit our website today, you will see a range of materials from nylon to Co-
Polyester specially developed for 3DP.
All of these materials were tested on a system exactly like 2BEIGH3 or similar.
We have never been limited by special boards/controllers, thermal requirements, speed requirements, force requirements or any part of the few units available at 3DP at the time.
We would also like to thank those who walk in front of us when designing CNC units that use pipes in the structure.
After several months of evaluation, these are the types of designs that inspired us in the CNC section.
While this unit was built with 2 \"pipes, we heard from other people who built larger units with 4\" pipes.
It is proved again that the pipe design is still effective for low cost CNC.
One of the main goals three years ago was to minimize prices/costs.
With the advent of low-cost Hot ends and extruder, one may be better off using one of the low-cost CNC units available now, simply adding the extruder and hot ends.
The complexity and ability of processing 1 are reduced.
75mm of 3DP will be the initial benefit.
Today, you can purchase several types of linear guides for CNC or 3DP equipment at a lower price.
We still recommend the 1/4 20 threaded bar for CNC as it is very powerful.
We still use MACH3 because it works well for both CNC and 3DP.
We have upgraded our thermal controller to our own design and may be released next year.
We wish all DIY Instructure users and others all the best and thank you again for your support and praise.
Given the changes over the past three years, we believe the future will be impressive! Our motto. . .
\"Give them knowledge, give them tools, give them materials, and give their way\" 2.
Here is a full 2BEIGH3 update along with the source of nylon 3D printed material. 3.
If you have a new 3D printed material, here are any safety test procedures for new and previously untested materials.
As a sample of the only unique new features in these new materials, here is a 3D print of the child nylon prosthesis insole on the 2BEIGH3 3D printer.
With the 3D printer configuration of 2BEIGH3, you will be able to print parts that meet higher standards in terms of strength, flexibility and flexibility.
You will be able to design some parts that can take a 100s hard blow from the sledgehammer and still have a soft, velvety texture.
You will be able to print parts that are almost equal to the extrusion of the factory mold.
In some cases, parts that cannot be squeezed out due to complexity.
The word \"layering\" will no longer be a problem.
Nylon and its derived polymers have some great properties that can be changed by filling density and layer height.
Imagine being able to print a permanent coffee filter, bearings that don\'t need lubrication, soft IPhone case, very tough band is very flexible and you can tie them to a knot, they will still support 200lbs!
I want people to use this guide to bring their designs and projects to tangible parts and objects because the paper and CAD designs are great but unverified until they are built.
My goal in this guide is to eliminate the mystery veil in CNC and 3D printing . . . . . . .
It\'s all overwhelming feelings or thoughts.
Since there are several other specific machine designs, including CNC and 3D printers, please refer to \"2BEIGH3\" or \"2 by 3\" in this guide \".
When I go through 2D and 3D blogs and websites, it\'s clear that people in 2D want 3D and people in 3D want to try to convert it to 2D.
They are all limited because their machines are designed for specific actions.
When the CNC machine works with the big X
Y side force (cutting bits)
They are very powerful, but the movement is very slow and the 3D printer needs little side force (
Outside the platform)
And very fast.
Since neither of these machines requires a fast \"Z\" axis, the design of 2BEIGH3 allows you to swap X-
Re-calibrate and return to cut or print in less than an hour.
Actually, my 2BEIGH3 takes 15 minutes, including calibration.
This process will be for us to make a machine, make a better machine, and then make a slightly different machine.
Although this looks complicated, it is mainly nuts and bolts.
I will try to show you specifically how to create or build the parts you need and provide detailed drawings and CAD files where appropriate.
You will see that I have borrowed some ideas from others on the instructures website, if I forget to mention the details that have been posted, please let me know and I will update.
So what exactly does 2BEIGH3 look like before we start?
As you can see, 2BEIGH3 was originally an enlarged version of Tom McWire\'s \"easy to manufacture desktop 3-axis CNC milling machine.
I know this is what I\'m looking for when I see this design because I can \"zoom in\" it.
I think Tom did a good job of showing us the simple framework for CNCs.
So what we end up getting before we start. . ?
2BEIGH3 specification for detailed description: Specification CNC3D printer build Volume 14 \"x 6\" 14 \"x 12\" 355mm x 355mm x 355mm x mm material aluminum 3mm
125 ABS and PLA plastic stick or wire plastic 2-3mm(or 0. 125\")
Nylon, nylon polymer, nylon 6 and 6/6-
6\' Rod Foam 3mm or 0. 125\" PET (
Plastic water bottle)(
Added cooling steel)X-Y resolution /-0.
005 ~ /-0.
012 Z resolution /-0. 005+/-0. 005 (
Not bad, but you probably shouldn\'t grind the piston for your half or printed contact lenses)
Cutting/printing speed 350mm/min 24mm/s cutting FoamABS tool/tip 0. 125” – 0. 250”. 32mm -.
62mm any CAD for the manufacture of \"3D CAD\" of the software. dxf”Exports “.
The Stl \"MACH3MACH3 LazyCamslic3r rev 6 PC Win XPWin xp I/O computer must have a 25-pin 5 volt\" LPT \"printer port.
The power usage of the stepping motor is difficult to predict because most of the power used by the stepping motor is contrary to that of the fan motor.
Their rated torque is \"hold torque\", which means \"standing still and they don\'t slip \".
So, when they don\'t move, they actually have less ability to move the table.
In order to maintain the 3 watts used by CNC, Hi or Lo res, the power of the motor, driver and control board is about 140 watts.
This will decrease a bit when the X and Y tables move.
We don\'t want the Z axis to move too much at all.
With 3D printer configuration, we need-
Throughout the printing process, it ends when it is powered on.
We also need to add some power to the extruder, but as I mentioned, because it always works, its appeal will be reduced.
A lot less, in 15-25 watts.
So we can get more than 220 watts of power for the 3D printer configuration.
I should explain my method before detailing the BOM.
Like you, what I want most is my money.
Although it will be easier to throw cash at parts (if I had cash)
Like bearings, special rebar, hot
These parts will lock us on a machine and it will be difficult to enlarge or replace the parts later.
If there are proprietary components, it is also difficult to crack 2BEIGH3 for your purposes.
I have hacked my own design because I want others to get what they want/need from the design.
In theory, you should be able to enlarge 2BEIGH3 to cut 48 \"x 48\" x 24 \"foam CNC, or print 24\" x 24 \"plastic tubes just by changing, screw bar and timing belt length.
So I took the approach that everything should be a commodity or a modified part.
We will consider the stepping motor, controller and driver as a commodity of this product.
Linear bearings are a commodity but expensive. 3D printer hot-
The end and the extruder are not commodities yet, so we will build them.
I also want to reduce the total shipping cost so everything (
You can get it in any hardware store except standard hardware)
Only 4 suppliers are available.
I will mention it but will not mention the details of the small screws.
I keep all the screws and bolts at 20 (6mm)
All small screws to 6/32 (4mm).
Basic machine-BOM describes a width of 28 \", depth of 26\", height of 20 \", Z-axis neck ~ 16 \"machine.
Again, if you want a machine of different sizes, just zoom up or down.
Cnc bom let\'s order what we need so they can be opened
When you need to install them, please manually install 4 compact 23 stepping motors per unit 5-8 kg-cm with 6mm (0. 250”)
The shaft shop around. . .
There are several places to buy these things.
I use 1 per 4-axis step controller-connect to the computer LPT port. (NOT USB).
I got one from each of the 4 step drive boards connected to the controller card and the motor.
Note: I recommend a supplier who sells 4 sleeve pieces that are known to work together.
Rating should be 3 amps, 12 amps24+ volts 1-2-8-
The 16 steps are similar to what I bought.
Note 2: The 3D printer will reuse the X and Y step motors, but also the fourth step motor of the extruder, so the \"4-axis controller/driver\" is required \".
The power supply of the stepping motor-the controller and the driver usually require two voltages. 7-9 volts and 12-
9 volts, any PS adjusted by 1 Amp will do. . .
There should be no problem with an old wall of supervision. For the 12-
24, I suggest adjusting 12 v @ 10-
12 am ps, because you don\'t need more voltage in most cases that meet the requirements, any higher voltage will make the motor run hotter than required. As 10-
The 12 am p power supply is not available everywhere, I have a few 12 V 4-
There are warts children on the wall of 6 amp, my drive board is separate board, so I put a rake on each board and connected all the ground (-)together.
Note: Do not parallel these PS because they are switches and become unstable.
Just connect the venue together. (-)…not the (+)
Mach3 CNC software for Artsoft Inc. Please purchase LazyCAM CNC software for Artsoft Inc.
The free Mach3 SW runs on a computer connected to the stepping board.
It converts GCode from CAM and slicer programs and drives the signal to the stepping motor.
It\'s the first time to go to the hardware store! Pipe -
They are all standard 1 \"iron pipes.
You can buy something, or like me, I gave a list of people in the hardware store and asked him to cut it off.
This saved about $20.
Again, if you want to scale up, it\'s time to go to a pipe of 1/2 or more.
Quantity Desc 2 each 24 \"3 each elbow 1 each tee 1 each flange-note. . . .
These are made of gold. . !
3 each joint 5 each 6 \"2 each 12\" 2 each end package reference 2BEIGH3 frame diagram to determine what parts go where.
The goal here is very tight. . tight. . . tight.
That\'s why I use the Union.
Being an elbow or tee will never line up where you need it, the union is here so you can tighten the parts as much as you can and then use the union to align at right angles.
That\'s why they make tape and other sealed compounds because they know that you always have to compromise in order to align.
I\'m not using Teflon tape, it\'s just two big wrenches and muscles.
Upon completion, you should be able to flick the flange with your nails and feel it with your fingers on either end of the cap.
As for alignment, at this point you just need to make sure that the z-axis neck is at right angles to the rest of the frame.
There are several ways to do this.
I have an accurate level of numbers.
I set the two legs on 2x4 so that it is not set on the end cap and use the gasket to level the legs for reference.
I then measured the level of the 12 \"piece attached to the flange and adjusted the two external joints to correct it.
Remember that the Z axis only needs to be horizontal with legs instead of Earth. The Z-
Axis alliance is only needed for rotation, you just need to approach it reasonably.
Now, look at your framework . . . . . . All your efforts and work in the future will take place between the two 24 \"blocks and about 8\" in this center.
Now is a good time to build, buy or invent solid tables that support 2beh3.
I am very tall, so my table is 48 \"from the floor \".
Also, the iron is not light.
A complete unit can weigh 50 lbs.
This is a good time to make noise.
The CNC version will use a high speed mini router with a very loud voice when cutting.
You have to wear ear protection. Period.
There is almost no noise from the 3D printer, but hot plastic can smell and smoke, so you will want to vent all the other smells and smoke.
Note: 3D printing using these plastics is like cooking on an open stove.
Don\'t let things get too hot.
Vent all the smell and smoke.
Don\'t touch the electricity.
Note 2: Polycarbonate may become unstable at very high temperatures.
There will be a separate 3d printed polycarbonate instruction sheet that will be described for hot-End.
The PWM controller will have a temperature cap.
Please do not try to print the polycarbonate with the published design.
Polycarbonate can change the state of plastic, Crystal foam, it is easy to have fire, hot
The end temperature exceeds 400C.
Much higher than the printing temperature.
Because the smoke is from the heat.
The final thermoplastic area (
About the size of the pencil eraser)
The actual amount of smoke is very small.
Along the route of the standard stove vent, as long as it is above the heat, it is enough
End to catch the smell and smoke.
Now the installation is a good time to plan the installation.
My wife and children voted for the garage!
The last project on the framework.
Although it may be in the garage, you may want to show it to your friends.
It\'s time for the frame.
Because it is iron, it will rust, so use paint with anti-rust agent.
You will find that there is no painting in my painting.
Collect and organize our tools!
Pipe wrench pliers screwdriver tap, because we will tap several holes 20 and 28. 28 will be used for 3D P later, but it is better to get it now.
When we will drill the three holes by hand, we will use the hand drill to dig the remaining holes.
Small bench drill press-nothing special, just a small bench drill press.
You can even rent/borrow one because we don\'t need it often.
We need this to drill holes for 3D printers.
A \"hole 1\" will be drilled deep in aluminum \".
Hammer punch for marking holes to be drilled. Reversible and variable speed hardened drill bits. 1/8, 7/32 and 9/64-For all 1/4-
20 threaded holes, drilled at 7/32 \", tapped to 1/4-
There\'s a hole in the hot top.
Drill at 7/32, but at the end of 1/4-28.
Goggles ear guard-ear guard or clogged hair net if needed: I stopped cutting small metal pieces a few years ago and only used bolt cutters.
Sandpaper-carbide for smooth metal edge Meter/DVM-Harbor freight costs about $5, however, for 3D printers, we need a sandpaper that measures the temperature from the thermocouple.
Port freight including thermocouple is about $20.
2BEIGH3 uses dangerous extremes to do its job.
I am not responsible for any harm caused by the Assembly or use of 2BEIGH3. 1.
Be careful with all power tools and wear proper eye, ear and mesh gear. 2.
When you print at 265c, the hot end circuit can drive to 320C. .
It will not only burn you, but also make you unforgettable. 3.
If the connection is incorrect, hot-
The end point can reach 1400F! 4.
The stepping motor connected to the 1/4 20 screw bar allows cnc x-
Push the steel through your knife.
It will crush your fingers if you are not careful. 5.
As mentioned earlier, you must discharge smoke and smell.
One sentence: From Concept to cutting/printing parts, I designed and built this unit in 8 weeks.
Now that I have them, I can tell you that I don\'t think it\'s an overriding task at all.
Just have a little confidence in yourself, just like they say \"do it.
Yes, I made mistakes along the way, and I threw them into a bucket of \"don\'t do it again.
\"Yes\", my CNC drill bit is trying to drill into China, but the plastic is cheap and disposable.
Knowledge is not!
During my design, I researched a lot of posts here and on other websites.
They were very helpful, so I decided to return the 2D/3D community by recording my design.
I thank everyone who took the time and effort to share their designs.
2BEIGH3 is open source hardware.
I encourage people to accept ideas and use them.
Please refer to it as \"2BEIGH3\" or \"2by3\" so that others do not confuse it with the kit or complete unit already provided.
In addition, the 2BEIGH3 3D printer has heat
End designed for nylon.
You will be surprised how you can print extremely smooth, curved, folded objects now
Transparent and resistant to chemical solvents.
Yes, you can print the hose, but you can also print countless other parts that are soft and durable keyboard covers, flexible covers, and hard to print in ABS.
Precautions for nylon by existing 3D printer owners: nylon is heated differently than ABS.
Please see attached PDF of nylon performance.
Simply inserting nylon into a REPRAP, TOM, or other 3D unit may damage the unit in some way.
I have a friend who has to order a brand new heat-
He ended up not listening to my warning.
And \"yes\" weeds
The Wacker \"/\" trim line \"is made of nylon. . . . .
It\'s also made of fiberglass and some other nasty stuff.
Put it in 2BEIGH3, REPRAP, TOM, UP or other 3D units and you will hear the sound of the fries being cooked. . . .
This is the tip of a sticky substance.
Burnt fiberglass must be drilled (
As my friend found out).
Also, the nylon is very slippery unless you have a \"pointed\" extruder because it is very likely that your extruder will slip.
High pressure extrusion is required for all nylon polymers. 0. 125 -
McMaster Carr provides 1/8 nylon sticks for 2beh3 (8538K12)
They have 4 parts, the cost is very low ~ $1.
68 is round, will print a lot of small parts.
In a few months or less, nylon material dedicated to 3D printing will be provided here.
Anyone can register here.
I got the white bar, took a rag and added ink to the bar with a little old printer to paint the color I wanted.
Nylon absorbs more water/liquid than ABS, so the color looks a bit translucent depending on the thickness of the part.
There are several suppliers on the Internet that offer 3mm ABS, just search on the 3mm ABS fake offline.
Again, 3D printing is no different from cooking on an open stove. . . . . So. .
Don\'t touch the hot part. .
Vent the smell and smoke. .
I have uploaded the DuPont nylon OSHA treatment and ventilation guide.
Pdf of people who are interested or eager to guide \".
Don\'t touch the electricity. .
So those stepping motors and controllers should have arrived by now!
There is no reason to go further before we can move the motor!
Collecting parts: computer with 5 v printer port-
Loading/installation MACH3 SW loading installation LazyCAM SW stepping motor stepping control and drive board power MACH3 this SW talks with the printer port with a pulse that tells the direction of rotation of the stepping electronics and the car.
It has an excellent and mature record in the CNC World.
It also has a lot of variables/settings that will take a while to learn.
Instead of posting tutorials on MACH3, go to the Artsoft site, because there are a couple of great videos there about Mach3 and LazyCAM installation to keep you going, and I will include my control files, because it already has the setup of the machine we are building.
Steps of MACH3 1.
After installing MACH3 as needed, you should restart. 2.
Temporarily turn off and disconnect the stepping controller and the motor 3.
Turn on/run MACH3 and then simply turn it off.
Download my Mach3Mill. xml file 5.
Back up your existing Mach3Mill. xml file 6.
Copy the downloaded file through the existing Mach3Mill.
Xml located in \"C: \\ Mach3 Directory 7. Reboot 8. Run Mach3 9.
Press 10 if the reset button flashes.
Go to configuration/port-
Pin/motor output, see settings for remarks. 11.
DIR Low active and Step low active are two items that may be different from my controller on your controller.
They don\'t turn when we get to the motor, these are the settings to click/change. 12.
My XML file is set for 20 sticks with steps divided into 8 13.
I have attached a simple section in the gcode of the 3D printer. 14.
Download and load within MACH3.
You may need to change the extension, but M3 will read it. 15.
You should see this part in the small graphics window. 16.
4 buttons 17 for Clk Zero X, zero Y, zero Z, zero.
The green cycle begins and the SW begins the process. 18.
You will see progress in the upper right little window, but progress is slow due to the machine having to slow down. 19.
For visual effects, speed up by continuing to click on the feed speed arrow.
Not to actually cut parts!
Motor and drive 1.
First connect the motor to the drive board using the supplied motherboard and motor documentation.
Note: do not power the drive plate without connecting the motor, otherwise they will be damaged. 2.
Use some bus bars to track the grounds and electricity. 3.
Use the socket strip with the switch to turn on the power supply. 4.
Note: Do not assume that there is any change in the polarity of the power supply.
Measure and Mark polarity using meters. 5. Hook up the 7-
Provide 9 V voltage for all boards as needed. The 7-
9 V is only a low-level circuit power supply, and the current consumed is less than the amplifier.
Be careful, 5 V power does not work. 6.
Connect 12 v PS-again, if you don\'t have a power supply, connect the ground of the four power supplies together, but the terminal will only enter a single drive board if there is a separate board.
If you have a single board with all 4 axes then you have to use a 12 v 10 am p power supply. Some people use the old power supply on their computers.
Search for examples on this website. 7.
Connect the fully filled 25-pin printer cable from the computer to the control board. 8.
If there is a separate motherboard, connect the interface cable from the control board to the four drive boards. 9.
Power on after running MACH3. 10.
The motor should be locked/clicked. 11.
You can\'t rotate the shaft with your fingers. 12.
Put a note on each axis. (
So you will see them turn around)13.
Use the left, right, top, and bottom arrow keys on the comp keyboard to rotate the X and Y Motors 14.
Rotate the Z motor 15 using the page up and down.
Use the digital key disk and-rotate the motor number 4 16.
If the Fourth Motor does not respond, go to the configuration/system hotkey and A/U to make the key and A/U-
Reverse the key. 17.
Again, you may need to click and change the signal polarity if the motor is not moving (direction)as noted above.
With the motor running, you won the battle of the biggest CNC/3D printer.
This is the part that prevents most people from building CNC machines or printers.
Take a moment to check your work before turning on the power \"on.
Believe me, everything is easier from here!
Even 3D printers are easier than this initial step.
In the photo you will see a round gray unit with a knob at the top.
This is an automatic
The transformer I used to change the tool speed.
You need to reduce the speed of cutting the plastic, but we will use dimmers because we only need about 55 volts when cutting the plastic.
Take a look at the CAD drawing images and photos to learn about our precision CNC tables.
It looks like there are a lot of sections, but there are 10 \"Y\" curly brackets that are the same.
For the x-axis, the Workbench will use a 3/8 steel rod and travel along the rod using the captured bearing.
We need a few because the linear bearing is very expensive, which makes our cost lower.
This bearing is available in any HW store as it is used for patio door rollers. ~ $5. 00 a pair.
The Y-axis uses the same bearing, but on the 3/4 square aluminum tube, since the Y-table will move almost entirely to both sides of the x-axis.
We will support the x-axis because it\'s hard to believe how much a 3/8 \"rod will bend in 28 minutes \". !
The material is 0.
You can buy 220 plexiglass or squeeze acrylic at the big HW store.
In this project, tough things are used on the horizontal plane.
Note: to cut the maximum part on a table with lower precision, you must make sure that your low resolution table can cut the 12 \"x 12\" part.
You don\'t cut the outline. . . . .
Let the people in the hardware store cut you a dress of 12 \"x 12.
Lowes sells 18 \"x 24\" x.
22 \"I asked them to cut 12x12 for 2 PCs and give me the rest and let me cut the smaller parts.
The figure shows the cut plastic part of the screw bar nut, which has been changed to a small piece of delrin, which is drilled to 1/4 20 for better fit and easier assembly.
The 12 \"x 12\" x2 \"block at the top of the table is like this, and we can easily mount the material to cut in different positions without scaring away our beautiful transparent plexiglass.
If you look, you can see that my beater is a little lower than I planned for a part or two!
The parts are connected through the tee and slot that we will cut in plastic.
This makes the right angle mechanical connection of the part very firm.
All assembly screws are 1/4 20 1 \"Philips, the screws used for rolling bearings are the same for the x-axis, but 2 for the y-axis \".
The nuts and washers you need are twice as many as some screws.
I don\'t count these because you probably don\'t want all the bearings.
My 2BEIGH3 only uses 8 for X and 8 for Y, but my design indicates a maximum precision of 22.
The first picture shows the explosion view for your reference.
Again, since we have cut the plastic, it\'s just a problem with the screws and nuts.
Bom quantity Desc 2 for each 3/8 DIA.
X 36 \"steel bar-stainless steel 2 20 Phlips screws for each\" x 36 \"square aluminum tube 16-22 patio door sliding bearing box 100 pc 1\" 2 boxes 100 pc20 nuts and washers-stainless steel 1 every \"T\" nut, for 20 1YPlate 1 XPlate 10 Y Struts 1Y step-by-step installation of 2Y TNUT board components.
Note 4 items: 1.
The \"T\" nut you got from the hardware store must have 2-
Install 3 small holes on the plastic Y pillar.
For T nuts, you may need to drill holes and use screws that are slightly smaller than 6/32.
Anyway, it\'s plastic and you need to drill carefully so as not to grind the plastic.
This is powerful once assembled, but it takes care to install the T nut.
Note: I have updated the x-axis and y-axis screw nut as per excellent user advice.
The material is Delrin and the last two photos are from dim.
These are the breeze of drilling and knocking.
They are of great help in reducing tooth side clearance and improving accuracy.
Thanks to all users for their contributions. 2.
The only spacing problem is that you need to make sure that the bearings on the Y-axis are all equally spaced, however, long enough for the Y-plate to clear the top of the Y-stepping motor.
So from the bottom of the Y plate to the center of the bearing curvature, it should be around 34mm. 3.
The picture shows a square tube of about 15. . . . .
Make drawing easier. . . .
They are actually 36 \"cut to the maximum depth of my table, or 28\" 4.
Y-AXIS threaded rod of length need to reduce.
I waited until I put the table on the frame and measured and cut the y-axis screw bar from the frame neck about 3 \".
Next join of table to frame-
Assemble the complete work table in addition to the x-axis screw bar and stepping motor.
Set the table on the frame.
From your estimate of where the router bit is, put a nut on the string. . .
About 3 \"extended from the flange \".
Align the X board with the Y Board.
Center the table where the nut represents the position of the router bit.
Install the x-axis screw bars and stepping motors to connect them with the coupler previously ordered.
Seal the stepping machine so that the threaded rod is parallel to the 3/8 steel rod.
Clip the 3/8 \"rod onto the right leg of the table and center the stepping motor.
Turn on the stepping system and let it pull the table to the right while keeping the stepping motor and leave about 1-2 \"gap.
Be careful when you do this.
The table should not move fast at all.
Once the table is on the right side of the frame, you get to your mechanical reference point.
You should tag and walkthrough 0 now.
The hole at the end of the 250 \"3/8\" Rod, and marked the position on the pipe, drilled a penetration hole at three of the four intersections.
Far right, far right, far left. . . . . not left close.
You should add 1/4 now. 20 \" 2\" -
Bolt the table to the frame is 21/2 \".
Mark and drill holes on two \"L\" brackets to install the stepping motor onto the pipe.
Use the arrow keys on your keyboard to make sure the table moves as designed.
Note: Be careful to move the y-axis towards you so as not to have its \"T\" nut come into contact with the step coupler.
Remember, you haven\'t installed any limit switches yet, so there\'s no limit!
You should gently lubricate the two screw bars with a non-dry lubricant.
There are four fluorine/Teflon in it. The effect is very good.
Note: Don\'t try to make everything perfect.
It\'s okay. . .
X and Y are aligned within the assembly and Z does not have X or Y. . . .
Just up and down.
You can put the table down 20 degrees on the level, that\'s OK.
It is important that when we tell the x-axis to move 20mm, it will move 20mm. . . . .
No more, no less, this is done on campus, my XML file has been set up for this design mechanism.
But we will be sure.
The 2BEIGH3 Z axis uses a \"center drawer Slider \".
Their rating is 100 so they are perfect for this purpose.
They are great on the x and y axes, but we would like to fill them at the 45 degree angle because they give a little bit at the 45 degree angle.
Note that if you do not build a precision CNC, you do not need to have a gasket on the z axis.
The z-axis is basically two plates that connect the drawer slider.
The stepping motor is actually screwed to a corner on the top with Wood (for now).
We will cut a piece from delrin and dig it into a screw nut.
With basic table operation, we will build/cut a safer bracket for the Z stepping motor.
For CNC, the shaft must support the weight of the router, dremel, or other cutting equipment.
For 3D printers, it supports the hot end only when the extruder is installed from the frame.
Like the drawer slider on the basic CNC workbench, use small screws to ensure that the screw head does not block the stroke of the slider.
In order to install your dremel or router, I used normal old metal strapping, some wood screws and a piece of rubber under the strapping to reduce vibration.
Again, once the base table starts working, you can cut out a better and more accurate mounting bracket.
The z-axis screw nut is made of delrin you bought.
Simply cut and drill onto the drawing (in mm\'s).
And use your 1/4.
20 tap and tap the only hole of the threaded rod.
Attach a sentence on the photo.
Don\'t let those wires scare you.
I just added a few 12 Volt fans to keep the cooling off of each motor.
The following is a list of wires/cables: X Motor Y motor Z motor extruder motor X Fan Y Fan Z fan extruder fan thermocouple
End or cut seen by the router. . !
Very simple thing, but it is scattered in the place where the motor is, it looks complicated!
As I mentioned, I didn\'t know anything about building CNC before I started this project.
I know it\'s a lot more complicated than the hardware looks.
The software assumes that you have some knowledge of mechanical CAD/drawing, let\'s face it, and you should have some CAD training if you are building 2BEIGH3.
I think you can design the dl from the network and then build those designs, however. . . . .
You\'re an inventor. . . . right? . . . .
Important Tips/precautions/Courses/points: 1.
The framework should be \"tight\" 2. Carbide bit. . . . .
Sounds a bit overdone. . . . . it\'s not. . . . .
You know it when you get it. . .
Just take it and it will cut you! 3. Calibration.
Distance in millimeters or inches.
Where the X and Y stops or the limit switch is not. 4.
Watch all Artsoft videos. . . . . . . twice! 5.
Don\'t complicate any components. 6.
Running a stepping motor with Mach3 is your biggest obstacle.
It\'s not that difficult. 7.
When your friend finds out you have your own CNC. . . . . .
Ready to be asked to cut everything! 8.
Once I \'ve done the basic table run, I \'ve made a variety of small improvements, fan holder/frame, stepping motor holder for z axis, etc. You will too. 9.
Don\'t look back. . . . .
We have a 3D printer next. . . !
Model X 3D printer 2beh3
The Y table is a fast belt drive table that does not use linear bearings, but depends on gravity because we do not expect the table to run upside down.
That doesn\'t mean it\'s interesting because some printers \"can\" work at a 90 degree angle.
We will use delrin parts instead of linear bearings that will slide easily along the 3/8 steel bar.
We will also use delrin components to upgrade the Y platform as this is one of the more important 3D printer requirements.
We will reuse the X and Y stepping motors on the CNC workbench because we have a coupler that can quickly switch from one workbench to another.
I\'m cheating here and actually I bought two other stepping motors to reduce my changesover time.
The X Azis stepping motor did most of the hard work here as it had to push the full Y axis along with the motor to the left to the right.
One change I would like to make is to use a Japanese Type 17 or 11 on the y-axis to reduce its weight.
That is why it is holding me back.
I can slow down the unit with ABS which is fine but we can relax the control of nylon to slow down the speed as it will start folding (
Fancy terms for \"dripping water)
Because of its stickiness.
To clamp the belt on the table, we will use 2 parts of 1 \"x 1\" delrin.
One hit 1/4 20 and the other hit 1/4 holes.
View drawings and pdf of the size data.
You need to find the hole of the clip in the center of the table, but again, it is better to put the table up and then put a belt on the two sprocket to best locate the position of the clamping hole.
For Mach3, close the program and copy the existing XML file to a safe place when power goes off.
You need to do this because Mach3 will not update its xml file until you close the program.
Before that, your changes were in memory, not in the xml file.
DL the next XML file configured for 3D printing.
Again, all you need to do is change the two settings for the polarity mentioned earlier.
My XML file assumes that all motors are set as follows: X and Y = 1/16 step Z and A (extruder)
= 1/8 stepBOM for HW store 4, 1 per 3/8 \"x 36\" SS bar, one mcMaster Carr PN 87 39k92 1 for each 24 \"x 1\" medium fiber board Wood 1 for each 24 \"x 12\" x 0. 220 organic glass
We will hand drill this part of the monthly XL series timing Sprokets McMaster Karl PN = monthly 5710k14 63 \"timing belt McMaster Carl 6484K453 PN = many 1/4
20 1 \"screws, 1/4 each-
20x3 \"Bolt 4 for each patio door roller bearing note: this is slightly different from the CAD image as I find that there is not enough weight on the y axis to make the delrin bearing work.
BOM 8 for our basic CNC cutting parts per bar pillar 2 per transport 2 per step motor holder 1 per Y axis base assembly: First of all, you will assemble all x and y axis tables.
Then place the parts on your mid-fiber board table and mark the holes to be drilled.
Once again, 1/4 \"holes.
The y-axis delrin bearing located on the x-axis rod will indicate the spacing.
I did this to force the parts to be in place, not to mark a large board.
This method allows tolerance for all individual parts.
After the initial X assembly, complete the y axis assembly.
You will notice that the 3/8 \"stick floats on the stand at this point.
Tis is only for initial assembly.
After assembling the unit, a comfortable fitting tie-band should be used on each side of the bracket to fix the 3/8 bar.
Otherwise, they may move out of their position.
The y-axis plate is just a small substrate.
The purpose is that at the top of this base plate you will want some main printing plate and you may want to be different from the size I use.
I use 12 \"square plexiglass just because I\'m not going to print larger parts at the moment.
A 14 \"Square is about the limit on the center table. Other wise. . . . . .
Enlarge the whole unit!
The purpose of the extruder is to pull the material out of the wire shaft or roller and into the heat-end.
The 2BEIGH3 3D printer extruder assembly is similar to the gear extruder used on other machines.
I have heard of the so-called \"Wade\" extruder.
Please search on \"3D printing with Wade extruder\" and read various changes and usage.
The main difference between the 2BEIGH3 extruder and other gear devices is that the gear ratio is about 15%, and the important difference is that the 2BEIGH3 extruder has spikes in the screw of the HOBB (
Part of 2 \"screw in material contact)
Grab nylon and ABS.
Without spikes, the nylon will be slippery and the extruder will eventually rub a flat point in the nylon and stop the extrusion completely.
The 2BEIGH3 extruder was seen in the photo.
The gear is cut from the organic glass (
You will see white lithium grease added to the teeth to reduce friction as squeezing acrylic is not the gear we want, but now it will let us print.
I will eventually release another instruction sheet to show you how to transition to a printed extruder with nylon that does not require lubrication.
I am still using this extruder because it works very well. . .
Assemble all screws (
Except roller screw and pressure handle pivot)and nuts are 6-32.
The spacing of the plate is determined by the thickness of the nut.
Just add the screw on the motherboard, add the nut, add the next plate, add the nut, add the last plate, add the nut. . . . .
Kind of like a sandwich.
The pinion is fixed with the shaft of the stepping motor.
The step shaft is 6mm or. 250.
From CAD printing, you cut the gear with the basic CNC table, I designed the center hole to make it tight.
For a comfortable fit, you need to rearrange/archive it and then use some sandpaper to polish the shaft surface of the stepping motor.
Don\'t stop until you build the assembly and align the gears.
Remember, the material is only 0.
220, we want as much surface area as possible for the gear mesh.
Use a simple \"quick curing of two-part epoxy \".
Tip: If I need to break a small gear to reposition, I cut 4 small gears and 2 large gears or cut the big gears during assembly.
The business end of the extruder is 2 \"1/4-20 Screw.
Between the two \"threaded\" Fender washers, we use the dremel cutting disc to wire the small slot along the opposite shaft of the thread.
This gives us the \"spikes\" we need to grab and pushes nylon and ABS into the hot end.
These two washers are \"Fender washers\" for 3/16 ID and 1 OD \".
This hole is exactly 1/4 of ours-
Tap and turn the washing machine into a very thin nut!
The two threaded Fender washers will be located on either side of the ABS bar or line to prevent it from bending or away from the spikes.
Two delrin plugs
1 is the same width as we have between the two threaded washers.
Delrin and Teflon are as slippery as nylon but very hard.
Plug 2 is just a square of 1 \"x 1/4\" and it will push the first plug.
The handle or lever is loading and applying force (a lot)
On Plug 1, Plug 2 in turn press the ABS or nylon stick tightly on the spike.
The distance between the threaded washers is 0.
In the photo, 125 or 3mm, you will see a white tube, right above the spike screw.
I find that the pressure is too great and I need to direct the ABS and nylon to the pipe connector.
The tube is 1/4 OD and 1/8 ID nylon stand-off.
The spring is just an available spring from the HW store I tested until I get the maximum pressure without breaking the plastic and it\'s easy to change from nylon to ABS and back.
The two 626ZZ bearings are the same as other patio door bearings.
You can order these online or take them out of the patio roller housing. Note (in the photo)
Blank holder, this is the side where the bearing pops up.
I installed a 1/4 20 Bolt with nut on both sides of the bearing.
Put it on a pair and give it a nice pop-up and the bearing comes out.
It\'s about $2. 00 online.
It only takes about 20-once I cut the part-
Assemble for 30 minutes.
The extruder is connected to the heat-
End with a \"bowdens\" system on some Ultimaker printers.
This is a \"quick connection coupler mmc pn 51215k1010\" which makes it easy for us to put the extruder anywhere we want and it is possible to replace the hot connectorends.
The 2BEIGH3 is popular
Install the end of the nozzle at different resolutions.
There\'s three heat in my 2beh3-
The same end of all installations. 1. 0.
62mm for low resolution or large parts. 2. 0.
There are 42 prints in most of them. 0.
32 Is hi res small piece 0.
32 is about the limit of X-
Step driver for Y.
Anything smaller, we need to get drivers that are less than 1/16 steps. The hot-
The same is installed on both ends and connected to the same material tube.
For each nozzle, I have a different profile in slic3r.
I designed 2BEIGH3 so you can use other extruder and hot end designs.
Again, I want people to invade 2BEIGH3 for their needs.
Please note the Assembly photos.
The intention is as follows: 1.
Display the material path through unit 2.
Show and provide more details of the bearing, gasket and slot position (hobbed)screw. 3.
Display spring load. 4.
Displays the additional plastic pipe that guides the material outward. 5.
Shows the cone Delrin block that presses the material on the slotted screw.
I also uploaded some 2D dxf files that want the CAD system to rotate everything on the XY plane.
These are represented by \"R. NOTE: (
The photo shows that there is a red nylon pinion when I am ready to design a full nylon extruder and is currently testing the gear. )The 2BEIGH3 is hot
End is designed for quick replacement or from one job to another.
Just 2 screws to install the device on the z-axis board.
The heater is connected to the standard shovel lugs, and the thermocouple uses one of the support 6/32 rebar bars.
Because there are some small differences that you need to re-
Zero the Z axis.
2 beigh3 uses two tip types.
The first is a hint of lower resolution. This is a .
023 \"mig welding tip.
See the small aluminum block knock 1/4-28. . . . there we go. . . .
I know we will use 1/4 28!
The MIG welding tip is drilled out with a drill bit of about 1/8.
200 from tip \".
The white cylinder is the Teflon/Teflon tube we ordered.
One in the other.
Watch out for ABS when this hot end is designed for nylon, it may have issues you need to pay attention.
The change of ABS is much faster than nylon, when you use ABS
Finally, you can\'t leave ABS idle at the hot end because it will gather inside and the thickness/diameter of the extruded material will start to change.
This means that you should always retract a few millimeters of ABS or PLA material when preparing for the next print.
I usually have a 1/8 tube that blows cold air in the lower part of the white cylinder, where it meets aluminum to prevent ABS from coming together.
Second hot-high resolution nozzle
The end nozzle is the higher resolution unit you may already have in the tool drawer.
I got a free one from the supplier because there was his logo on it. . . . .
It is made of aluminum, it is threaded, it has a 0.
We can scroll to 5mm ID for a smaller ID, they are everywhere and cheap.
Even Amazon has ump. teen flavors. (
Of course, you need a tanker like in my picture, not a full plastic)
I have been printing parts for work and friends since I started and run the printer. . . . .
It\'s almost always printed or cut!
2BEIGH3 can print a weakening of 55 degrees but start dropping the thread after that.
So you have to take the constraints into account when designing.
There will be more later.
BOM 1 1/2 OD x 1/4 \"ID Teflon/four fluorine tubes per piece-each hot-
The terminal needs about 4 \"mmc pn 8547K31 1 Teflon/PTFE tubes per 1/4\" OD x 1/8 \"ID-each hot-
The terminal needs about 5 \"mmc pn 8547K23 1 8 washers per unit 1 mmc pn 51215k06 per coupler or any hardware storage 4\' 3/8 neopreme
Plumbing section of your HW store)
Cut to fit your installation.
1 each 6/32x24 rebar 4 each 6/32 nut 1 each 120 V heater box MM Carr PN 3618K119 1 each aluminum block cut from mmc pn 6023K291
Multi-functional anode alumina (Alloy 6061)
3/8 \"thick x 2\" width, 1 \"length 1 0 each.
023 \"MIG welding tip-
Port shipping costs $10, 2 for 5 pc, 1/4 \"spade terminals for each male, 1 for 16 Ad Hoc Working Group wires, 1 for thermocouple, 1 for each Delrin, x every heat-
It takes about 4 \"1 per 1-1
The 2 amp 120 volt light dimmer absorbed by the heater cartridge.
The nominal 300ma at 56 amps at 120 volts and at the printing temperature is still not a bulb, so we need a good dimmer capable of 1 amp.
The heater cartridges are isolated and CSA has been approved, but you still need to use the covered shovel terminals for safety purposes.
Note: about the \"four fluorine non\" as we all know
The stick coating for cooking utensils \"is of course the famous DuPont coating used when cooking for millions of people.
Since any inventor or designer wants those who repeat his efforts to be safe, I will explain the source of concern in a few lines.
Since its invention in 1938, there has been something called the \"Teflon controversy.
Until today, it is taught in universities and colleges.
Google search for the word \"Teflon controversy\" will provide you with a wealth of insights. As for an in-
Depth and scientific description of Teflon
Great coating for cooking utensils, this site is a good start.
As the author of this manual and the designer of 2BEIGH3, I am not a polymer expert and cannot represent Teflon non-
Stick to the coating or what some people call four fluorine.
However, I can define the usage of Teflon during the actual 3D nylon printing process. 1.
Although the heater cartridge can reach the temperature of 600F as mentioned earlier, this is not the actual printing temperature as nylon will boil under that value. 2.
The actual temperature at the time of printing is 20-25 degrees higher than ABS. 3.
Round area of Teflon non
The rod coating in contact with heat is \"inch\" of 12mm diameter \".
About 1/1000 of the average frying pan. 4.
Temperature of contact point on Hot Spot-
End is 10 to 20 degrees warmer than most people cook meat, but certainly not as hot as the left unattended frying pan on the stovetop.
Once again, the author expressed respect and appreciation for everyone\'s comments.
Cut/Saw and drill Delrin according to the print cut assembly and drill aluminum according to the print Note: the ID of the larger pipe is slightly less than the OD of the smaller pipe.
After cutting to the length, place the larger tube into a pair or fixture and drill 1/4 holes in its center.
We want a comfortable body so no more than 1/4.
Otherwise, the hot plastic will find a way between the two tubes, and when it expands a little, it will start to limit the smooth flow of the material to the aluminum block.
Chamfer the top outer edge of the 1/2 \"tube so that it meets delrin.
Chamfer the bottom outer edge of the 1/4 \"tube so that it can be directed to 1/4-28 hole.
Note that if there is no good pressure seal, this is where your plastic and nylon will leak.
This design is like this, when you screw into the top connector, it pushes 1/4 of the PTFE rod down and puts pressure on the chamfer end.
This is not fixed as the fourth fluorine expands when we first heat up.
If you notice a leak around the 1/2 \"tube and aluminum block, tighten the connector so that more pressure can be applied to the inner tube.
The gasket keeps the connector on the inner tube slip.
You need to click on the thread at the top of the Delrin block.
This is the main line of the non-proliferation treaty.
Since Delrin is easy to dig and the price of Tap is expensive, you can do it like I do.
Just take a 1/2 old peice tube and cut about 12-with your dremel-
14 slots in the thread as shown in the figure. Works great!
The same is true of time and money.
Wrap around the thread at the tip of the MiG around a three-ring Teflon tape.
You need to drill with a 1/8 bit on the MiG tip.
2 \"use sharp drill bits from the tip.
Use very slow speed on your variable speed drill.
The metal is very soft. Use oil. . .
Then use more oil.
10W 30 works well.
The drilling process pushes some metal out of the tip. Pull it out . The 0.
The 023 hole will also be blocked.
With the 1/16 bit, just tap the bottom of the hole. . . .
Just like you\'re going to do this hole with a smaller point.
Don\'t push things from childhood. . . . .
Push a small wire from the inside (
Where you drill)
Go out, the shavings will come out from the small fee.
Blow out any other pieces of metal using compressed air.
If it won\'t open, please click on it again with 1/16 bits.
Curl the Spade terminal onto the heater cartridge wire.
Don\'t weld at 320c, they will comesoldered.
Screw the tip into the aluminum block-tight.
Be careful not to peel off the threaded holes.
The goal is to heat alum for the heater cartridge, thus heating the tip.
Measure and cut the screw bar, install the thermocouple and you can go.
The screw bar in my photo was slightly bent.
This is due to the inability of the early insulator design to withstand mechanical stress.
I just bend these into the right position instead of cutting the new rod.
As for the dimmer, it is for us to get up and print, but of course we want a more accurate way to keep the temperature.
I recommend using a standard industrial PID controller.
There are several on EBay for about $20. 00 or so.
Below is a photo and wire labeled so you can see how it is connected.
These always lack the information of \"how.
This uses a \"K\" thermocouple.
It will have a nice plug, but cut it off and simply go through the two wires.
They crossed the first point. . . .
That\'s how they feel.
This means you can rotate the wires a few laps, but only feel the first \"touch \".
These new materials are expected to drive new designs for engineers, inventors, artists, amateurs and anyone who needs something that has not been in the past.
From professionals to Home Crafts designers, anyone will now have a wealth of materials and capabilities to make their vision, design, crafts, inventions, or just a fix for the water heater, reality.
And, of course, the notorious pet.
Billions of plastic in waste water bottles
To be honest, this is why these are not recycled. . . . .
No one wants to drink from the \"used\" bottle (
According to BW marketers). So. . . .
How do you use this technology if you are an environmental activist or just want to be responsible for the environment?
The following are the photos of the materials with comments at present :(
Please note that the crystal clear polycarbonate is incomplete at this time. )
The last picture is a photo of replacing the stepped signal optical isolator with two short jumpers.
Just cut off the photoelectric lead and replace the wire/jumper as shown in the figure. This will by-
Through the photoelectric and provide the complete signal to the 7414 buffer chip.
This should eliminate steps that are skipped and/or splashes.
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